Les Calanques

Reisebericht für das Magazin: Kajak (in der Themenvorschau 2018)

Die Fjorde der Provence 
Frankreichs schönster Küstenabschnitt


Als wir das Mittelmeer im Zuge unseres Südfrankreichurlaubes Anfang Juni 2017 erreichen, bläst seit drei Tagen der Mistral. 
Blauer Himmel und Sonne um die 28°C. Und Wind. Viel Wind.
Wir stehen auf dem Cap Canaillev, das östlich die Bucht von Cassis wie einen riesigen Wall aus Stein schützt, und schauen auf das Meer. Die Felsen dieses Kliffs sind die höchsten Klippen in Europa. Atemberaubend ist die Sicht auf die kleine Hafenstadt und die Umgebung. Atemberaubend auch die Schaumkronen auf den Wellen. Sie lassen nichts Gutes ahnen. Aber pünktlich zum Wochenende soll es besser werden. windfinder.com hat es uns versprochen. 
Cassis ist aus einem Fischerdorf in eine beliebte Ferienstadt katapultiert worden. Wer will das verübeln? Im Norden wachsen hellgrüne Reben an den Hängen, im Süden leuchtet azurblau das Meer, im Osten strahlt ockergelb das Cap Canaillev und im Westen schimmern die weißen Felsen der Calanques. Kletterer, Wanderer, Taucher und Paddler finden hier ein Paradies vor.

Hellgrün die Reben, azurblau das Meer, 
orange das Cap Canaillev, 
weiß die Felsen der Calanques.

Dem Ansturm der Gäste konnte man aber städte- bzw. parkplatzbaulich nicht viel entgegenhalten. Wir  suchen den kleinen Hafen Miou. Er liegt in einem engen Fjiord westlich von Cassis. Es geht bergauf und bergab, durch winklige Gässchen und entgegen der Richtung der Einbahnstraßen. Was? Unser Navi ist sich sicher. Wir nicht. Noch dreimal ziehen wir eine Runde bis wir aufgeben. Sicherlich bedeutet dieser französischer Zusatz unter dem Verbotsschild: „Anlieger frei“. Oder etwa nicht? Etwas entnervt erreichen wir den kleinen Hafen in der ersten Calanque hinter Cassis und belegen den letzten freien Parkplatz. Die Gendamerie kontrolliert schon im kostenpflichtigen nebenan …

Dann geht alles ganz schnell. Eigentlich wie immer, wenn man aufs Wasser will. Der Pfad ist für unsere schweren und langen Seekajaks steil und holprig. Was soll’s. Die Sonne lacht und es scheint nur mässig windig zu sein. Der Wetterbericht verspricht abflauender Wind am Nachmittag. Genaueres erfahren wir erst, wenn wir aus der geschützten Bucht hinaus paddeln. Vorbei an kleineren Segelbooten und Yachten, die wie an einer Perlenschnur aufgereiht sind, gleiten wir in Richtung offenes Meer.

Kaum aus der Calanque de port Miou türmen sich
300 m hohe Steilwände mit bizzaren Formen vor uns auf. Mal glatt geschliffene breite Felsen, mal spitze Säulen, vereinzelt großen Höhlen und Durchbrüche von den Ausmaßen ganzer Kathedralen. Dazu wilde Felsverwerfungen aus Kalkstein. Weiß leuchtend. Unsere Fantasie arbeitet auf Hochtouren. Ist das eine Figur? Sind das geheime Zeichnungen? Wir überprüfen alles. Ganz langsam und gründlich. Wir haben Zeit. Der Wind hat sich gelegt. Ideales Paddelwetter. 

Die erste Anlandemöglichkeit ist etwa 4 km entfernt: Die Calanque d’En-Vau. Tief hat sich das Meer in die Kalksteilwände gebohrt und an seinem Ende einen traumhaften Badestrand gebildet. Das Meer unter unseren Kajaks schillert in wunderbaren Türkistönen und lädt uns unwiderstehlich zum Baden ein. Am Strand liegen schon die ersten gelben Sit-on-Top-Boote. Leihboote, wie wir bald feststellen. Bis wir wieder aufbrechen, hat sich ihre Zahl verdreifacht. Ein Wanderweg führt von Cassis über die Calanques nach Marseilles. Es ist Frankreichs schönster Küstenfernwanderweg.

Inzwischen gibt es auch einige Quereinstiege, die alle mehr oder weniger lang sind, aber mit dem Auto kommt man an fast keine Bucht heran. Gut so. Trotzdem ist der Strand schon gut besucht. Es ist Freitagmittag.
Wieder auf dem Meer geht es weiter in den Superlativen. Ein riesiger schmaler Spalt, gerade mal breit genug für ein Kajak. Überhänge und Ablagerungen von Wasserrinnen in XXL.
Und davor ganz klein: Zwei Farbtupfer in orange und rot auf blauen Meer. Wir. Sprachlos und staunend. 

Die nächste Anlandemöglichkeit an der Calanque de Sugiton versteckt sich hinter großen Felsen. Vom Meer aus kaum zu sehen, liegt hier ein wahres Paradies: Zwei winzige Kiesstrände. Geschützt durch die Felsen wachsen Blumen und Kräuter aus jeder Felsritze. Kleine Bäume krallen sich am nackten Stein fest. Der Wind hat sie eigenartig verformt.

Jugendliche springen von den Felsen ins Meer. Das Wasser schimmert türkisblau.

Nicht weit davon bietet der Port de Morgiou an der gleichnamigen Calanque eine weitere Rastmöglichkeit. Ein kleiner Hafen, eine Bar, ein Restaurant und einige Häuser teilen sich die enge Schlucht. Verschlafen liegt der Ort in der Mittagssonne. 

Wir umrunden die Calenque de Triperie, an der sich der Eingang zu der Cosquer Höhle befindet. Das ist ein riesiges Kammersystem, deren Wände mit den berühmten prähistorischen Höhlenmalereien verziert sind. Der Eingang liegt 37 m unter dem Wasserspiegel und ist für uns daher nicht zugänglich. Was sich hinter dieser massiven Steilküste noch alles verbiergt, können wir nur erahnen.

Die anschließende Calanque de Sormoiu gehört ebenfalls zu den bewohnten: Angler sitzen träge auf den warmen Felsen. Am flachen Sandstrand tummeln sich Badegäste. Im Hintergrund stehen diverse Fischerhäuser sowie kleine Restaurants. Durch das Naturschutzgebiet dürfen keine Hotelanlagen gebaut werden und so hat sich der Ort Sormoiu seine karge Ursprünglichkeit bewahrt. Inzwischen fahren Ausflugsschiffe im Viertelstundentakt an uns vorbei. Sie zeigen den Touristen die Calanques im Eilverfahren. In jedem Fjord ein paar Fotos, dann geht es weiter. Wir haben Zeit. An den Steilwänden entdecken wir Kletterhaken, hoch über uns kreisen Vögel.

Dann verändern sich die Felsen. Sie werden flacher, nicht mehr so gewaltig. Nicht mehr so eng und tief eingeschnitten. Wir verzichten auf die Weiterfahrt nach Marseilles und kehren um. Unsere Traumbucht wartet. In die kleine Kiesbank am Calanque de Sugiton haben wir uns verliebt. 
Der winzige Strand liegt inzwischen im Schatten und hat sich schon merklich geleert. Das trifft sich gut. Sonne hatten wir heute genug. Wir genießen die Stimmung bei einem Gläschen lauwarmen Wein. Baquette, Käse und Oliven.

Der Rückweg verläuft ruppig. Plötzlich aufkommender Wind vom Meer macht uns zu schaffen. Wir bekommen ihn längsseits. Das ist unangenehm zu paddeln. Die Wellen brechen sich an den Steilwänden und kommen wieder zurück. 
Es entsteht Krabbelwasser. Wir spüren die Gewalt des Meeres und des Windes, der sich die Steilküste entgegenstemmt. Und fangen an diese einzigartige Landschaft zu verstehen.

 


Naturschutzgebiet

Wer die Calanques zwischen Cassis und Marseilles paddeln möchte, muss einiges beachten. Es handelt sich um ein Naturschutzgebiet,
 d.h. es ist fast alles verboten:
 Zelten, Biwakieren, Feuer machen, Rauchen und der übliche Rest wie nichts anfassen, keinen Müll hinterlassen usw.
 Und es wird kontrolliert.

Hinzu kommen unsere eigenen Erfahrungen:
 Möglichst nicht an einem Wochenende und nur bei stabiler Wetterlage.
 Die Einsatzstelle im Porto Miou von Cassis hat nur wenige kostenfreie Parkplätze, ist schwer zu finden und der Wasserzugang nur über einen steilen Trampelpfad zu bewerkstellen.


Unsere Etappen

0 km Calanque de port Miou,
+ 4 km Calanque d’En-Vau,
+ 6 km Calanque de Sugiton,
+ 1,5 km Calanque de Morgiou,
+ 2,5 km Calenque de Triperie,
+ 2,8 km Calanque de Sormoiu


Jahreszeit

Anfang Juni

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