Petit Rhône

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Reisebericht für das Magazin: Kajak (in der Themenvorschau 2018)

Die Petit Rhône: Paddeln im Rhône Delta
Camarque, Südfrankreich

dl: rosa Flamingos an der Petit Rhône
Es ist heiß. Brütend heiß. In St. Marie de la Mer in der Camaques. Dem Glutofen Frankreichs. So heiß, dass Bermi und mir schon beim Nichtstun der Schweiß ausbricht. Die Luft steht. Schatten? Fehlanzeige. Büschelgras. Niedrige Bäume. Gatter. Bewässerungsgräben, Reisfelder. Pferdekoppeln mit den weißen Camarques Pferden oder schwarzen Stieren. Kleine Seen bevölkert mit rosa Flamingos. Wohin das Auge reicht. Ach ja, und Moskitos. 

Es ist Anfang Juni 2017. Wir sind auf einer Südfrankreichtour mit Kajakbooten und Fahrrädern. Das Flußdelta der Petit Rhône ist eine Zwischenstation.

Rosa die Flamingos, weiß die Pferde,
schwarz die Stiere, grün das Land.

Nach einem kurzen schweißtreibenden Abstecher ins Hinterland verbrachten wir den gestrigen Tag am kilometerlangen Strand. Nur dort weht ein laues Windchen. Heute wollen wir aufs Wasser: Die Petit Rhône bis ins Meer paddeln – mal sehen.

Unsdl: schwarze Stiere an der Petit Rhôneere Fahrräder lassen wir beim kleinen Bootsverleih gleich neben dem Campingplatz von St. Maries de la Mer zurück.
Mit ihnen wollen wir zum Einsatzort zurückradeln. Wohin? Das wird sich noch zeigen. An Brücken sind in der Regel gute Einsatzmöglichkeiten und so versuchen wir es an der Brücke von Sylvérél. Dort ist laut google earth eine zugängliche Stelle zur Petit Rhône und zudem ein Kanuverleih. Optimal wie es scheint.

Unwegsame Ufer

dl: Schnecken am Weidezaun, Camargue Und tatsächlich der hiesige Kanuverleih bietet einen Steg zum Einsetzen der Boote. Allerdings ist das kleine Gelände eingezäunt. Wir fragen höflich nach. Die Besitzerin gestuliert und quasselt wild auf uns ein. Wir verstehen keinWort. Dürfen wir auf ihrem Parkplatz unser Auto abstellen oder nicht? Dürfen wir unsere Boot zu Wasser lassen? Ein Redeschwall folgt dem nächsten. Es scheint kompliziert. Eine zu Hilfe gerufene Französin schlichtet: Wir dürfen. Parken & Einsezten der Boote. Das kostet zwei Magnum Eis. Die Besitzerin muss ja von etwas leben. Ach so. Eine indirekte Bezahlung. Also gut. 

Dann geht es endlich auf das braune Wasser der Petit Rhône. Der Fluß schleppt Unmengen an Sediment mit sich. Kein Wunder, schließlich ist er schon ein Weilchen unterwegs. Das Wasser sieht nicht sehr einladend aus. 

Die „kleine“ Rhône ist fast so breit wie der Rhein bei Karlsruhe. Die Strömung gering. In der Ferne hört man das Lachen der Schulkinder, die ihren Schulausflug aufs Wasser verlegt haben. Sonst nichts. Wir sind allein.

Schwarze Augen und sanfte Nasen

dl: Weiße Pferde an der Petit Rhône beschnuppern KajaksDie Petit Rhône schlingelt und windet sich, als ob sie sich ziert und weigert, sich endgültig im Meer zu verlieren. Niedrige Bäume und Büsche begrenzen urwaldartig ihre Ufer. Erst nach der Fähre bei La Sauvagne wird die Vegetation lichter. Schwarze Stiere stehen bis zu den Knien im Wasser. Hier und da eine kleine Sand bzw. Schlammbank. Sie laden zu einer Mittagspause ein. Wir sind allein. Außer ein paar Fischern ist uns niemand begegnet. Oder etwa nicht? Schwarze Augen und sanfte Nasen beäugen neugierig unsere Kajaks…

Salz- und Süßwasser

Die Vegetation ändert sich je weiter wir in Richtung Meer kommen. Hier wachsen riesige Binsen, die mit dem erhöhten Salzgehalt des Wassers auskommen müssen. Büschelweise säumen sie die Ufer. Eine einzigartige Landschaft. 

dl: Binsen an der Petit Rhône

Wir bemerken die Nähe des Meeres nicht nur an der aufkommende Gegenströmung und dem Wind. Es wird rummelig. Touristenboote suchen die Ufer ab. Stiere, weiße Pferde oder Flammingos? Klick, klick. Klick.

Kleinere private Yachten liegen an den Ufern und dann sehen wir den Durchbruch zum Meer.
Heftiger Gegenwind und -strömung erwartet uns. Die Wellenhöhe nimmt zu. Vorbei ist die Beschaulichkeit auf der Petit Rhône. 

Kaimauern schützen die naheliegenden Badestrände. Einer davon ist unser Ziel. Hohe Wellen schlagen uns entgegen. Kabbelwasser an den befestigten Mauern. Das finale Ende unserer Paddeltour: Das Einlaufen in die geschützte Badebucht. 

Dort stehen unsere Fahrräder. Am Zaun des kleinen Bootsverleih westlich von St. Marie de la Mer. Wir dürfen nun auch unsere Seekajaks dort lagern bis wir mit unseren Fahrrädern das Auto geholt haben. Bei der Brücke in  Sylvérél. 13 km Landstraße. Bei inzwischen 34°C. Feuchtheißer Luft. Aber die Camarque ist flach, es geht zum Glück nicht bergauf.

Naturschutzgebiet
 Camarque

Die Camarque steht flächendeckend unter Naturschutz. Wild Campen/Zelten ist nicht erlaubt, es gibt aber jede Menge größere und kleinere Campingplätze.

Die Petit Rhône

Geruhsamer, stark mäandrierender Fluß. Urwaldartige Bewachsung an den Ufern und/oder Gatter. Daher ist das Einsetzen der Boote ist nur an wenigen Stellen möglich. Die Stege von örtlichen Kanuverleihern sind nur unter Absprachen nutzbar.
Für Anfänger und alle Bootstypen geeignet.

Info

Der Ausstieg (Ende der Tour) ist an den Sandstränden sehr gut möglich (Seegang prüfen!), bei zu hohem Wellen ist das Anlanden im Mündungsbereich anzuraten (Vorsicht: Blocksteine).
Rücktransport mit Fahrrädern zur Einsatzstelle ist ideal.

Unsere Etappen

0 km       Einstieg: Brücke bei Sylvérél
+ 19 km  Ausstieg: Sandstrand von St.Maries-de- la-Mer beim Campingplatz

Jahreszeit

Anfang Juni

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